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[bigletter]The closest we will get without a passport to the Alps, Aspen remains the premier snowy destination for fun on and off the mountain. So of course it was my first choice for a brief romantic getaway this Valentine’s Day with Arthur and despite some of the hiccups we had getting back home I still can’t wait for another chance to head back. All the deets below, enjoy! Xx[/bigletter]
Getting to Aspen
Aside from how fabulous this ski town is, one of the main draws for us was the less than two hour direct flight from LAX. And after the most serene landing into the snowcapped mountains, my husband and I couldn’t stop raving at how easy it was to get here. However, our hotel shuttle driver quickly reframed our upbeat sentiments making it very clear that the Aspen Pitkin County Airport (ASE) was rated the worst in the country with the highest rate of cancellations and delays. And unfortunately for us that stat came true as our flight home was cancelled at 5am the morning we were set to head home. Fortunately we acted quickly and found another flight out from Vail (Eagle County Airport, rated the second worst airport FYI but also beautiful). After a hefty car service bill later we made it in time for our early afternoon flight and landed at LAX on time. Our driver gave us some tips for mastering the Aspen airport, which is to always book the first flight out so that you will be alerted to a cancellation the night before, and therefore with more time to change your plans. He also recommended a site/app called FlightAware that lets you track where the plane you are scheduled to take is currently located before getting to you. This way you can get a good idea of whether or not it’s delayed at it’s previous destination or what the weather conditions are like in the city it’s coming from. All of this to say that flying into Denver Airport and driving into Aspen (3-4 hours) is the safest bet, however, flying directly into Aspen is still worth a shot for the potential convenience!
Where to Stay
Aspen is a small place favored by wealthy people and the lodging options definitely reflect that. If you can rent a house that’s the best option as the hotels get super pricey especially during ski season. Snowmass is about 20 minutes away and has a lot of good options for families, like condo rentals but with less restaurants and nightlife so you will need to go in town for any off-the-mountain fun but they have a Viceroy which would definitely be my pick.
I ended up choosing The Inn at Aspen which is a three star hotel at the base of Buttermilk mountain with an 8 minute shuttle ride into and around town, available everyday for free from 6am to 10pm. I was impressed with the ease using the shuttle service, they took us everywhere and it was fast and convenient with two drivers in the afternoon when it’s most busy. The accommodations were not luxurious by any means but we loved using the hot tub before dinner and if we were here with Parker I would most definitely stay again and ski Buttermilk mountain. There was also a family who used the base at the foot of the hotel as a mini sledding hill which seemed like a convenient way to get out that pre-dinner energy!
Another less expensive option in town is the Annabelle Inn, ff your budget is bigger Hotel Jerome has all the upscale mountain vibes you need and it’s located right in town with the cutest bar and coffee shop! The Little Nell and St. Regis are also perfectly situated at the foot of Aspen Mountain and most certainly the pinnacle of luxury!
Where to Snow
If you’re looking to ski or snowboard Aspen Snowmass has all four mountains (Aspen, Highlands, Buttermilk and Snowmass) available in one lift ticket. We booked early and set out to conquer Aspen Highlands given it was where the infamous Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro sits perched just under the top of the mountain. As a beginner/intermediate skier I knew all blue runs would be a challenge but I’m happy to report I made it down with only a few controlled falls! We ended up loving Highlands because we truly were the only people there and per our driver that appears to be the norm. We made it to another run at Aspen mountain (also know as Ajax) whose base is right in the heart of town, before swapping the heavy snowfall for a cozy aprés at Ajax Tavern.
Our hotel was located right at the base of Buttermilk Mountain and from what I heard had lots of options for both kids/beginners as well as more challenging runs for avid skiers/snowboarders. Buttermilk definitely seems like the best option if you’re looking for a family friendly spot but also want to be close to town.
Otherwise Snowmass has the most versatility and is my husband’s favorite place to ski of all time considering the runs are big and long, it’s also about 20 minutes from Aspen and tends to attract more families.
In addition to the lift tickets serving all four mountains, the ski rentals through Aspen Snowmass also are available at all four mountains and can be transported from one to another easily so I recommend getting lift and rentals through their site here.
Aspen Snowmass was the only place I could find tubing and the snow coaster available which we had wanted to do but couldn’t make it work during our short stay.
Where to Eat
French Alpine Bistro // the most quaint restaurant in town, so cozy and romantic especially since they gave us our own little chalet that instantly transported us to the Swiss alps! The cheese fondue was spectacular and I couldn’t imagine a better experience to start off our Valentine’s Day trip! Make sure to get a reservation as the place is tiny!
White House Tavern // you can take a girl out of LA and she still will want her dip duo! I had forgotten this spot was part of the Hillstone family and was pleasantly surprised when we snagged a seat at the bar while bopping around town in the snow. Despite technically belonging to a chain the place stands out with its freestanding little Victorian house setting and freshly baked bread in house. They don’t accept reservations and per our driver the building next store was bought by Hillstone three years ago so they will likely have more space eventually. In the meantime it’s a great option for take-out for families or groups looking to stay in.
Casa Tua // I’ve been meaning to get to their Miami location for some time now and was happy to find it here in the cutest mountain house structure right in the center of town. The inside looked just as cozy as its’ chalet facade and the food was worth the hype. Arthur nearly melted at the eggplant wrapped in mozzarella and if I wasn’t battling altitude sickness I would have most certainly finished off my buccatini cacio e pepe. Arthur was beyond happy not sharing the tiramisu even after we finished off not one but two remarkable bread baskets! The vibe is upscale and romantic but definitely still cozy and warm, everything you’d want coming here in the wintertime!
Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro // before you get too excited we choose the first seating not only to save us a mortgage payment but also because one glass of Veuve is my safe ski limit and you must make it down the mountain afterwards. The second seating is an absolute aprés dream outside of the fact that raging in that level of altitude with that amount of champagne (not just the drinking Veuve but the champagne shower Veuve included in your pre-fixe) is unimaginable. Our driver said they are number one buyers of Veuve Cliqout and whether or not his facts are straight the message is clear; only the most advanced drinkers and skiers can partake, unless you’re like us and want an upscale alpine lunch on the least crowded mountain in town! I wasn’t able to order the fondue since Arthur is vegan and it’s a two person minimum but everything else on the menu looked delicious, including my sea bass. My one glass of champs matched my sweater and fortunately got me down the mountain safely, cheers!
Meat and Cheese // we didn’t go here but it came highly recommended by everyone I talked to and by the name alone I know I’d be more than satisfied!
The Snow Lodge at The St. Regis // we had planned to spend Valentine’s Day Dinner here but unfortunately my altitude sickness came back and going out was no longer an option. I am totally sad I missed it but would I definitely prioritize the aprés afternoon session here over a late dinner next time!
Betula // a beautiful sister restaurant to Bonito St. Barth which we loved. Unfortunately our plans changed and we couldn’t make it but it’s high on the list for next time!
Where to Aprés
Ajax Tavern // this is definitely the upscale aprés option that a Real Housewife like Ramona Singer or Heather Dubrow would be at with her girlfriends. It was too snowy for outdoor seating but we found a nice spot inside and ordered the well known truffle fries which were delicious and Arthur couldn’t resist the vegan cauliflower gratin which he loved.
Hotel Jerome // one of my favorites from the whole trip and definitely a bucket list hotel if we ever make it back, it’s everything I envision when thinking about a perfect mountain escape and their Living Room bar embodied it all. We liked it so much we went twice during our two night stay and although it’s the most relaxed of all the après options it was probably my favorite. The hot chocolate is a must with or without a shot of Bailey’s!
The Snow Lodge at The St. Regis // the aprés here is essentially a concert party in the courtyard of the St. Regis Hotel. They are a seasonal outpost of The Surf Lodge in Montauk and attract the youngest, coolest crowd. In addition to the courtyard there’s also a nice Italian restaurant that you’d never know was a popup and beautiful lounge for drinks and bottle service. I’d recommend checking the lineup ahead of time and coming early if you’re not interested in booking a table, otherwise the restaurant does offer access to the lounge following dinner.
Coffee and Sweets
Paradise Bakery // in addition to Hotel Jerome, this was the only other spot we frequented more than once and I don’t need to explain why! The best pastries, cookies and ice cream (and perhaps the only)?
Gorsuch Cafe // the well known snow chic boutique opened a cafe and so we took our baked goodies from Paradise Bakery here and sat with a coffee by the fire. Aside from the adorable to-go cups, the location is right at the base of Aspen mountain and a perfect spot to wake up and warm up after a day of shredding. And the sheepskin detail didn’t hurt!
Felix Coffee // I’ve been to the original in New York and it’s perhaps the most beautiful coffee bar I’ve ever seen. Now they have an outpost in the chic Hotel Jerome and it’s also gorgeous and beyond Instagramable!
What to Pack
Shop the Aprés Edit here
Ski and Snow // I wore leggings under my pants and a thin sweater under my ski sweater and I suggest you do the same! It’s cold and always easier to cool down than get warm. The only thing I wish I had was a neck warmer of some sort that’s preferably water resistant or can tuck nicely under your ski coat. Good goggles and gloves are always necessary too!
Aprés // if you are getting on the mountain wear a nice ski sweater under your coat and maybe even some cute thermals under your pants so you have flexibility with your layers. You can always leave your cute boots and hat in a rental locker with your gear or change right after you return everything.
Mountain Hat // you will quickly realize how much people like their western style hats and unless you want to spend $$$ at Kemo Sabe, the best hat shop in Aspen, I suggest you find something neutral and snug to keep your head stylish morning, noon and night!
Night on the Town // Aspen is unlike most ski towns because people take dinner and nightlife more seriously, likely because not everyone is spending all day on the mountain. This is one of the main draws for me obviously because I loved getting dressed up for dinner, especially while on vacation! My guide above has all my dream snow appropriate ensembles but as a general rule of thumb think elevated cold-weather essentials like a cashmere sweaters, black tights and leather boots, but add something fun like a feather or fur detail, wear a bold print or sparkle, it’s all welcomed here!
