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[bigletter]My favorite place in California, the charming town known for it’s fairytale-like cottages, European flair and magical alleyways. Did I forget to mention it’s by the sea? A seaside escape just two hours south of San Francisco. The sleepy small place with beautiful rugged beaches and Monterey cypress trees that stole my heart years ago on my first visit with my mother up the California coast. We ventured to so many beautiful spots but the most picturesque of course was here.[/bigletter]
Carmel is a sleepy town so expect to be in bed by ten o’ clock full of delicious food and discerning wine. But outside of where to eat and sleep there are actually many other lazy things to do with or without a cocktail! And there are so many places to stay in town making it very easy to get around.
This recent mini romantic getaway with Arthur marks now my fourth trip to this slice of heaven by the sea and reassured me once again this is my absolute favorite California destination! Given my extensive experience now as a visitor
Since this was my fourth trip to Carmel, I’m going to refresh my previous guide with this one. Enjoy!
Getting to Carmel
Arguably the most scenic California drive one could imagine, this is likely where most coastal car commercials are made! Northern California has the mountainous cliffside roads with rugged beach edges that rival the coastlines of the Mediterranean. Carmel by the Sea is just north of Big Sur which boasts the biggest and best views of seaside beauty in California, suffice to say a drive is definitely worth it.
The easiest way to arrive if you aren’t from California is to fly into SFO or OAK airports and rent a car to drive about two hours south into Carmel. Even though there are flights to Monterey Airport, which is a short 15 minute drive in Carmel by the Sea, I recommend you snag a car at some point to enjoy a bit of the coastline drive between Carmel and Big Sur and also to explore the 17 mile drive within Carmel.
Convertibles get extra credit!
Where to Stay
Cypress Inn // Perfect location, pet friendly and historic (where we stayed this trip)
Carmel Valley Ranch // Bougie, away from town and romantic
La Playa Carmel // California-Spanish style charm, more resort-like but located in town, straight out of a Nancy Meyer’s film
Svendsgaard’s Inn // Dog and budget friendly, walking distance to town
The Lodge at Pebble Beach // Golfers paradise, full resort on the beach, good for families
The Getaway Carmel // Beach chic, boutique hotel, good for a girls weekend
L’Auberge Carmel // European charm, amazing restaurant, very walkable
Where to Eat
Casanova // everything you’d expect from Carmel, rustic and charming with the most amazing food (the spinach gnocchi is excellent) and a splash of art history with it’s Van Gogh table antique.
Portabella // looks touristy for good reason, a cute place for lunch or dinner right in the center of town. I love to eat out front or inside by the cozy fire.
Cottage of Sweets // a perfect place to head after a nice meal at Portabella or anywhere for that matter! This place is an institution in Carmel where all the best fudge and chocolate truffles can be found! Still dreaming about my giant peanut butter cup.
La Bicyclette // lives up to the hype, has an even better spinach gnocchi than Casanova in my humble opinion! Perhaps the most exceptional spot open for lunch, no outdoor seating but we found a perfect little park down the street to eat al fresco. The salad pastèque, Parisian gnocchi and any of the pizzas are a must.
L’escargot // as you’d imagine, the most quaint little French restaurant that had me by the bougainvillea adorned facade alone! I loved my heavy meal of classic escargot and French fries to pair, Arthur’s goat cheese tart and salad weren’t bad either.
Bistro Giovanni // We walked past this spot around dinner time and I couldn’t help but consider a second round as it looked so romantic and legitimately delicious, definitely on my list for next time!
Carmel Coffee House // Charming little courtyard spot with the best lattes in town, however, I couldn’t help but send Arthur over to nearby Carmel Bakery for an oversized sweet to pair!
Dametra Cafe // The most lively spot in town, a Mediterranean hotspot with the best baklava, live music and dancing!
Vesuvio // A lively social rooftop perfect for happy hour and mingling. We came here for a cocktail and some small plates, the saffron risotto arancini and garlic bulb were delicious. It’s not exactly the most charming of atmospheres I seek out in Carmel but the overwhelming display of bougainvillea out front is super instagram worthy!
Aubergine // Perhaps the fanciest restaurant in town of them all, fine dining and at such a beautiful hotel, one I would have stayed at if they had had availability. It’s not exactly the type of romantic setting I was interested in but a great spot for foodies from the big city!
Stationaery // A causal brunch/lunch spot, on my list for the lobster roll with caviar and stunning lattes I saw on Instagram!
What to Do
17 Mile Drive // My favorite thing outside of walking the town is the 17 mile drive, like I said before, convertibles get extra credit. It’s a private drive with stunning real estate and even more magical views of the rugged beachside, cliffside golf courses, and literally 17 stops of significance. There is a small entrance fee but they will credit you back if you spend money at either The Inn at Spanish Bay or The Lodge at Pebble Beach, both are worth stopping at for a apperitf or meal! We had a great view of the course while I sipped the perfect summer cocktail called “basil time” at Sticks. But regardless, you must stop at the famous lone cypress tree and maybe even take a walk (or dip) on the Spanish Bay beach.
Carmel Sunset Beach // Carmel has some of the most beautiful beaches with perhaps the whitest sand in California and gorgeous trees you don’t need to climb. It’s one of the most pristine beaches I’ve seen on this coast and of course is dog friendly. I love bringing a picnic here before sunset after a stop at The Cheese Shop.
Antiquing, Art Galleries and Shops // Carmel is known as an artist’s retreat and there’s no surprise why once you’re there. As a result the streets are overflowing with galleries and home furnishing shops. We had a great time browsing after lunch and stopped in a few places I’d recommend; The Secret Garden, Diggity Dog, Forget-Me-Nots and The Pleasure of Writing. Unfortunately I didn’t have as good of luck finding anything cute for Parker but perhaps I went to the wrong spots!
Refuge Spa // This spot was on my list in case we had a few hours to kill between stuffing our faces, however, we never quit made it. Only a 10 minute drive from town this looks like a wonderful spot to relax after lunch all year round with it’s outdoor hot springs. I can’t speak on the quality of the massages but I love any place to lounge in warm water and take in a view alone!
Wine Tasting // There are so many tasting rooms dispersed throughout Carmel by the Sea that you could easily make an entire day of it and this website has all the details including directions for a self-guided tour. Folktale Winery is about 11 minutes away and looks like a perfect spot to have lunch and wine taste for the afternoon. It’s located in Carmel Valley, a community of vineyards and an adorable little rustic town worth exploring after your tasting.
Live Music and Cocktails // Bud’s at La Playa Carmel is a great place for sunset cocktails on the patio or a nightcap in their bar. Terry’s Lounge at Cypress Inn has live music on weekends, a cozy little bar area and is very dog friendly. Mission Ranch offers nightly piano music at dinner and Barmel is the only establishment in town that stays open late!
Farmer’s Market // We happened to find the farmer’s market on Thursday, where we also found the BEST watermelon lox ever from a green food truck who’s name I unfortunately can’t remember! There were so many lovely vendors we unfortunately didn’t have the room in our stomachs to try but the environment was amazing with live painters capturing the scene and a sprawling park adjacent to the market, perfect for picnicking with the goods!
What I Wore
